Remembering Prague

As fairytales of spending a summer in Prague danced in my head, I heard the pilot announcing our descent simultaneously with the voice in my head saying, “What have you done?”

It was supposed to be a glorious summer spent with my sister, attending a writing seminar and having some fun. After all, Prague had just been likened to ‘Paris in the 20’s’, and stories of ex-pat writers and artists living in Prague had began to call to me.

But, weeks before our departure, my sister got cold feet. Still intent on going, I packed my laptop, a few books, and some clothes and summoned the courage to rent a small flat just outside Praha to work on my book.

If this did not cure my writers block, nothing would, and if the trip was a disaster, at least it would provide some new material.

After literally stumbling upon my flat, I made my way to the Charles’ Bridge (Karluv Most). Although it is probably the most traveled tourist destination in Prague, (not normally my bag), I wanted to see it, to hear the energy and languages of people from all over the world, to take in the jewelry, paintings, and other artists works that line the pedestrian-only cobblestoned bridge, and rub the St. John of Nepomuk statue that is supposed to bring good luck. I knew that once I took this all in, and heard the music of the street performers, felt the breeze from the Vlatna River, and was invited to a concert by the locals, my reason for coming would be confirmed.

And it was.

Needing a little solitude, I found my way to John Lennon’s wall; the graffiti and artistic renderings of peace and freedom that the young generation in Prague bravely painted on the wall each anniversary of Lennon’s death despite still being under Communist Rule.

It somehow felt apropos for me at that moment and realized that for the first time in my life, I felt free. Free to do anything.

Over the next six weeks, I visited the Jewish Quarter feeling like I had been there before, walked through the Prague Castle with its Golden Lane where I could swear I saw Kafka, and climbed Petrin Hill enjoying its eight parks and magnificent panoramic view of Prague. I glided through the Royal Gardens pretending to be a princess, and marveled at the amazingly intricate astrological clock in Old Town built in 1410, gasping after hearing stories that Hanus’ payment was being blinded so he could not create anything so beautiful again.

I spent many afternoons writing in the park, making friends at the numerous internet cafes, discovering the museum of my new favorite painter, Mucha, and oh yes, I even decided to pierce my belly, though thankfully my body rejected it and it did not stay for long.

I ran home after buying groceries the first time (since Czech is not an intuitive language) hoping that the kure I bought was not rabbit and was thrilled to find in my English to Czech dictionary, that it was in fact chicken.

I met up with one of my best girlfriends who was traveling that summer, and met an ex-pat who is the brainchild and author of the guidebook series, Avant Guide, (the one on Prague is quite good), and I have to admit that as the owner of the restaurant we dined at fawned all over us, (even if it was for a good review) I thought to myself, this guy is brilliant, what a great gig.

In the summer, the sun does not set until 9:30 pm in Prague, so it leaves you time to wander backstreets, visit Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí), see a performance at the gorgeous Opera House, and then grab a beer at a local pub. Many Czechs claim that beer was invented in the Czech Republic, but I will let the experts debate that one.

Vaclav Havel, who was President that summer, had been a playwright writing about the "absurdities of totalitarian bureaucracy" which led him to fame, losing his passport, and spending 4 years in jail. Call me what you will, but I have to admit that it was a bit romantic to see him out at a fancy restaurant with the public on his side that summer.

I had an amazing summer in Prague and would highly recommend traveling to a truly unknown place, alone at some point in your life. It challenges all that you believe to be true about yourself, and the world.

And, if you are thinking of a destination, Prague is an incredible magical and mystical place that allows you the opportunity to have any journey you wish.

The Dancing Building in Prague.